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Tag Archives: England

More Things to Love about England

30 Friday Nov 2012

Posted by frannyritchie in Uncategorized

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Bond Street, emails, England, London

I was running down Bond Street at full tilt on Tuesday night to try to catch my train back to Cambridge.  Bond Street is a famous shopping destination and its the holidays and so I was waving between pedestrians when I saw a guy up ahead, right in my path.  He saw me as well, and we both zigged and zagged until I smashed right into him.

He was taller than I realized; my head only made it to his chin.  And in this fantastic accent that I recognised but can’t place, he said “whoops, sorry, darlin!” and moved aside as I, flustered idiot, untangled myself from his jacket and took off.

It was the sweetest thing. I instantly regretted not at least, you know, making eye contact as I apologized.

This little incident came on the heels of an email from an acquaintance – 20something architect, kind of a goof, seems like a nice guy. He and I had a lovely chat about our favourite radio shows, and so he sent me a list at my request.  It was a totally normal, friendly email, and he added an “x” after his name.

The thing that I love about that is that its typical.  Last week I got an email from a different architect (30something, seems like a nice guy) about a social event – and he signed it with an “x” as well.  People sign all their texts with “x”s as well.  Its such a thing that a coworker has accidentally signed professional emails with an “x” and only realised too late.

I think its delightful.  I love it especially because England can be so formal in so many ways; people aren’t super effusive or touchy-feely.  But they call each other darlin’ and they sign emails with kisses, and I find that completely endearing.

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Audley End = Poor Man’s Downton Abbey

10 Wednesday Oct 2012

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Audley End, Downton Abbey, England, Our Friend Liz

England is full of giant houses, now mostly owned by the National Trust, from the days of the landed gentry (which sort of still exist, but whatever – cough Downton Abbey cough cough).  Every time I hear about/come upon a new one, I hope its the house they used as Pemberley in the original Pride & Prejudice.  No luck yet, but I’ll keep you posted. Anyway, Audley End is a National Trust property about 20 miles south of Cambridge, with its own train stop.  When Our Friend Liz was here, Ian and I took her to Audley End for a tour of the house, gardens and stables.

For me, the highlight was the garden – the things these houses did to be self-sufficient is so clever.  They had a mushroom cave, a pineapple pit, and a heated greenhouse so that they could have peaches and tomatoes year-round, and I bet they tasted better than the crap I bought at the grocery today.

The stables had two horses, which was exciting for the horse-enthusiast among us (hint: it wasn’t me) and the house was cool.  But actually the house wasn’t nearly as exciting as everything outside – a seven-acre kitchen garden, a formal garden, a set of walking trails, a giant expanse of lawn in front of the house…it was really lovely.

Ian’s Birthday and Liz’s Visit

08 Monday Oct 2012

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birthdays, England, pub crawl, pubs, The Eagle, travel, vacation

Ian had an birthday a few weeks ago.  In the interest of making his big day A Big Day, I hounded him for months about how he wanted to celebrate, without ever getting a straight answer or actually making any plans.  And then a friend of ours from college came (relatively) last minute, and Ian came up with the perfect fete: we did a cross-Cambridge pub crawl on Friday and a fair on Parker’s Piece on Saturday, with a trip to Grantchester and Audley End thrown in for good measure (about which more later).

Anyone wishing to imitate our awesome pub crawl is welcome to our itinerary:

– Fort St. George for Pimm’s
– The Old Spring for drinks & dinner
– Champion of the Thames for scampi fries and after-dinner drinks
– The Eagle, because its famous (its the place where the discovery of DNA was announced AND the place where RAF troops hung out during WWII – there’s still their graffiti all over the back room
– detour through the city centre, to laugh at all the scantily-clad townies waiting in line for the awful bars
– the Free Press
– The Tram Depot, because its open late

We didn’t go to the Kingston Arms or the Cambridge Blue because we were drunk and tired, but those would have been next on the agenda:

The next day, we went zorbing – which has been on my to-do list for a little while.  It’s basically exactly what it looks like: you get in giant plastic balls and run/jump around for a few minutes.  It’s like having a movable bouncy castle.  Its awesome.  As expected, though, it gets pretty clammy in there pretty quickly.
 

Thank you, RSPB!

24 Monday Sep 2012

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birds, birdwatching, cycling, England, exercise, My Friend Lisa, nature, RSPB, travel, UK, vacation

My friend Lisa and I had been planning a big day out to go birdwatching for at least a couple months now, and we almost cancelled it because of the threat of bad weather (I peer-pressured her into it).  So on Sunday morning, we met at the Cambridge Rail Station, loaded up her panniers, and hopped a train to King’s Lynn.  From there, we cycled about 20 miles to the Titchwell Nature Reserve, where I was in nerd heaven for the next four-and-change hours.

I was nervous about the cycle, because Lisa is a Serious Athlete and I’m, well, kind of a goof (but I’m getting really good at zumba class!).  She also looked genuinely appalled when she realised that my bike is way too good for the likes of me (fair enough).  But with Lisa carrying my binoculars and lunch, riding a commuter bike, and leading the way for most of the journey, we more or less kept a similar pace.  The only times I got nervous were the downhills, because with my Fat Kid Advantage I would go screaming down the hills and overtake her really quickly, and I would either have to take the wrong side of the road or hit the brakes repeatedly.

Still, we made it there and back in one piece.  It was my first real birding experience in Britain, which was great, because almost everything I saw, I was seeing for the first time.  We saw an avocet about five minutes after we walked it, and I am obsessed with avocets, so my day was made more or less from the moment we arrived.

Titchwell Marsh is a series of marshes – freshwater, saltwater, sea – with hides arranged around the perimeter.  Yesterday it was jam-packed full of Serious Birders with spotting scopes and some truly impressive cameras.  Lisa and I were also there, bringing down the average age by a decade or two.  I got so into it – at one point Lisa was really cold and ready to go get a cup of tea and I said “but look at that bird! and that one! and that one!” – she was probably ready to kill me.  But seriously.  It was amazing.

The rain started about 8 seconds before we got back on our bikes to cycle to King’s Lynn.  I got a flat tire half a mile from the train station, and then we shivered out of our wettest clothes and had a cup of tea before sprinting to the station and huddling for warmth on the train back to Cambridge.  We looked through the book as the train moved south, though, and both of us were shocked to realise how many birds we’d actually seen.  Some birds – Canada goose, swan, mallard – were not so exciting.  Others were things I’ve been wanting to see for years – avocets, a pectoral sandpiper, a lapwing, and (this was the biggest surprise) three Eurasian Spoonbills.

I like shorebirds because they’re super cute, and also usually easy to spot, unlike warblers or small birds that perch high in trees.  But we had a phenomenally successful birdwatching outing, even if the trip back was a struggle.  I cannot thank Lisa enough for figuring out the route and the train schedule, carrying my stuff in her panniers across 20 miles of surprisingly rolling countryside (it wasn’t mountainous, or anything, but flatter would have been better, at least on the way back…), and being excited about birds in the first place.  Freezing train ride aside, I had a really great day.

 

Urban Homesteading

22 Saturday Sep 2012

Posted by frannyritchie in Snacks

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Cambridge, England, food, harvest, summer, vacations

I spent a year living in rural Pennsylvania, and while I was there I had a huge garden and a small orchard. I froze fruit, made applesauce, harvested garlic, learned to make pesto from different greens to deal with the chard that ran wild in my garden, picked berries, foraged for chives in the spring…I was just learning, so I didn’t do anything stupid like pick mushrooms, but one of my favorite parts of living in the country was how much the land gave you if you looked.  Even an idiot like me could materially reduce their grocery bill just by paying attention.

Then I moved to Boston, where opportunities for gleaning were much thinner on the ground, and I was too busy to take advantage anyway.  Apart from a memorable trip to pick blackberries, my time in the big city flew by in a blur of grad school and Trader Joe’s frozen meals.

Last autumn, I was too overwhelmed by the move to think about apple picking.  But even though my attempts at gardening only yielded about five strawberries, it turns out Original Cambridge is full of free fruit, and apples are just the beginning (or, seasonally speaking, somewhere toward the end).  Earlier this month, I wrote about plum picking at the Orchard Tea Rooms. Things have picked up speed since then, and here is a brief list:

– applesauce with apples purloined from Grantchester, used in a variety of baked goods and distributed to friends and coworkers
– a second round of apples for applesauce, apple butter, apple helppies, apple juice, and any other apple product you can recommend because
– plum freezer jam, again with purloined plums
– elderberry syrup from elderberries in the Mill Road Cemetery
– elderberry muffins
– frozen elderberries
– blackberries frozen for baked goods later in the year

Last weekend I got completely carried away with the elderberries.  I strolled through the Mill Road Cemetery until I literally couldn’t carry any more, encountering two adorable small children near the Cambridge Blue, both of whom wanted to help me pick fruit.  Because I wasn’t eager to be the creepy adult peddling fruit to six year olds, I said no thank you and told them it would stain their fingers – which they took as a challenge.  One of the little girls, with pale skin, frekcles, purple leggings, a purple skirt, and pink crocs, held a single elderberry between four fingers and sang “look! I didn’t stain my fingers! I’m going to eat this one!”

I must have managed to strike the appropriate air of adult authority, because I gave her my best Disapproving Look and said “I would really prefer if you asked your mum first.” And she said “aw man!” but let the berry fall, and I moved on.  At this point I was lugging around a giant pot literally overflowing with berries, so I slogged home and started de-stemming them.  Five hours and no breaks later, I had about three pints of elderberry syrup, a purple-stained countertop, and four or five cups of elderberries for muffins (check!), freezing (check!) and leaving in the fridge too long and letting them get mouldy, thereby wasting all my hard work (check!).  I’m including two pictures, including one blurry one with my face in it – for context.  We are talking serious elderberry action. The pot was so big that I had trouble getting everything into the photo.

It was epic.

Ridgeway Walk/My Friend Lauren’s Birthday Celebration

14 Friday Sep 2012

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archaeology, Avebury, birthday celebration, Chalk Downs, England, holiday, My Friend Lauren, photography, Ridgeway Walk, vacation, Wiltshire

The Ridgeway Walk is an 87-mile trail across Southern England that begins at Avebury, a modest but very cool version of Stonehenge (or at least, a different set of giant stones in an even giant-er circle)  For My Friend Lauren’s birthday, we did 24 miles of the walk, beginning in Avebury, over two days.  It was a larger chunk of the walk than we thought we were doing  (day 1 was 11 miles instead of 6.6…oops) but the walk was beautiful.

The Ridgeway Walk is very cool for a few reasons:

1. Its beautiful

2. Avebury, which is pretty famous

3. Hill forts! We walked through three hill forts and a burial site in two days

4. White Horse Hill, Uffington, a prehistoric sculpture of a horse wherein the land has been scraped away to reveal the chalk below. It’s awesome:

Image courtesy the-history-girls.blogspot.com

Of course when you’re standing next to the horse, you can’t really tell what it is, and its at the top of a hill, so you can’t really see it from below…but you can get a sense of the scale, which is very large.  Apparently if you stand in the eye of a white horse (there are several scattered across Wiltshire), its supposed to make you fertile.  My Friend Lauren said that and then followed it with “Don’t even think about it!”

Let’s not get ahead of ourselves, friends.

Cotswalds Adventure

12 Sunday Aug 2012

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Cotswalds, England, Oxford, travel, UK, vacation, village

There were all sorts of wonderful things about heading to Oxford for the weekend, but the best part was reconnecting with my friends Beth and Julian, who I met when I studied abroad, and whom I haven’t seen since.  Its a funny thing to rediscover adolescent friends as adults – we were so close when we were 20, but who’s to say what 8 years of separation will do to a friendship? A small part of me was concerned that we would sit in awkward silence for the duration of our visit.

Thankfully, that small part of me was wrong.  Beth and Jules were the perfect hosts, cooking up a storm all weekend and taking us on a scenic tour of their ridiculously cute village in the Cotswalds, an easy train ride from Oxford.  The pictures really don’t do their village justice – it was full of perfect cottages and picturesque open spaces.  We went for a walk around the village, I climbed a tree and Beth and I goofed around on some playground equipment (I love playgrounds, which I realise makes me super creepy), and then we sat in their back garden enjoying a rare bit of sun before catching a train back to Cambridge.

Oxford Nostalgia Tour

10 Friday Aug 2012

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England, Great British Summer, Nostalgia Tour, Oxford

A few weeks ago, Ian and I headed to Oxford for a Junior Year Abroad Nostalgia Tour.  We went to the Pitt Rivers Museum to look at shrunken heads; strolled through Blackwells and did our best not to buy the place out; walked through the covered market and got a Ben’s cookie; did a blitzkrieg visit to the Ashmolean Museum; walked along the Isis and watched people fail at punting; and – most importantly – visited Worcester, my old college.

Oxford was bumping – the high street was packed; the museums were packed; the pubs were packed; the sun was shining and the whole place was shiny and appealing.  That said, I didn’t travel very much in England when I was doing my year abroad and had yet to develop an academic interest in cities), and so I didn’t appreciate how much of the high street was just like any other high street: it was disappointingly corporate, without much in the way of independent businesses (beyond Blackwell’s, of course, which was amazing.)

We did manage to find some essential Oxford at the museums, though. Usually, I am opposed to taking photos in museums.  The pictures rarely turn out and it seems a little pointless in general.  But the Pitt Rivers Museum is so atmospheric that I found myself snapping photos left and right.  Its in a back room of the natural history museum, in a room with a central atrium and high vaulted ceiling, and it doesn’t look like anyone has touched any of the exhibits since 1872.  Its amazing.  There are tiny models of traditional houses from Malaysia and Nunavut, cases full of fortune-telling paraphernalia from around the world, shrunken heads (seriously.  there are lots of shrunken heads), Eskimo outfits made from translucent seal gut and Japanese theatre masks.  They’re all crammed into one room with three stories of balcony and one three-story totem pole.  Its amazing.

A lot of the fun of going to Oxford is that you live in such a rarefied world — you have access to all these incredible places that tourists can’t get into (which I realise sounds horrible – basically, its fun to live in a world of rigidly enforced snobbery and elitism. I shouldn’t say that, but…its true).  So I couldn’t show Ian the inside of the Radcliffe Camera or wander around the stacks of the Sackler Library, or breeze past a porter’s lodge on my way to a tutorial.  But we were able to go to Worcester, my old college.  It looked perfect, and almost just like I remembered. They’d changed the landscaping in front of my old room, but the lake (don’t call it a pond!) and the Buttery and the entryway all looked essentially unchanged, and just as beautiful as I remembered.  Even the mailroom looked the same (and I did go look at it, and cast a glance to my old pigeon-hole, just to be sure).  The year I spent at Worcester was challenging (because living in a foreign country is challenging, among other reasons), but I’m so lucky to have had a chance to experience Oxbridge life from the inside.  Worcester isn’t one of the richest or most famous colleges, but its still a nauseatingly beautiful place, and Oxford (though a little grittier than Cambridge) is a place with a lot of quirk and charm, especially if you’re willing to overlook the shopping centres.

King’s Summer Supper Party

08 Wednesday Aug 2012

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Cambridge, England, Great British Summer, Kings College

My friend Felix is a fellow of King’s College, which means that he gets to do cool stuff like walk on the grass of the college (seriously, its a thing), eat at High Table all the time, and invite me to the King’s Fellows Summer Supper Party.

It started with drinks in the King’s Chapel, which has an insane fan vault and is probably Cambridge’s #1 tourist attraction.  Most people don’t get to drink wine in it, though.  Then we had a very strange and mostly delicious molecular-gastronomy inspired meal (it featured truffle oil that tasted a bit like popcorn, somehow, and a mushroom doughnut).  Ian took his cuff links that gave him in 2007 on their maiden voyage and I made a perfunctory attempt at conversation with the people across the table before I gave up and chatted with Felix the whole time. There were fireworks, goofy little carnival rides (including swings!), and croquet.  Felix, who had never played before, schooled us – and then I got bored and started queuing up all the croquet balls and going for distance while Felix pleaded with me not to leave any divets in the grass (I only left one).  I was also introduced to the sport of Wellie Wanging, which is apparently a thing: you take a rubber boot and throw it as far as you can.  That’s the whole game.  I thought this was a hilarious invention of King’s, but apparently its a well-known English pasttime.  I was telling an English friend about the experience of the supper club and she asked if there had been wellie wanging, and I have since learned that there is a national championships with a regulation wellie.  Seriously, you can’t make this stuff up.

I’m totally grateful to Felix, who has been very generous about sharing King’s with us – peaks inside the rarefied world of Cambridge colleges are always exciting when you’re not part of the community.  I like to think that showing him the non-university Cambridge is a fair trade (he only leaves King’s to go to Stansted or to our house), but I’m not sure its a fair trade.  But I’ll take it!

London 2012, peeps

05 Sunday Aug 2012

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England, London 2012, Marathon, Olympics

Ian and I made it home from a rainy week in Wales yesterday (more about that later/below) and then zipped back down to London today to meet up with some friends and watch the women’s marathon.  I got a text on the way down that said “weather should be clear!” which meant that it poured for two hours, until we gave up and went into a pub.  Then it cleared up until we left the pub.  Then it rained again.

There’s been a whole lot of Olympic fever going on, and getting to see it in person was pretty cool – and the press wagon, featuring lots of ponchos and expensive cameras, was pretty hilarious (almost as exciting as the race itself).  That said, Olympic runners go realllllly fast, and actually watching the whole race from a pub was ultimately more entertaining that standing in the rain watching people go by – we didn’t get any of the drama until we started watching it on TV, and could see who was actually competing and watch their progress over time.  And in the afternoon, the weather took a turn for the absolutely perfect, so we laid in the grass in Green Park and goofed around and it was perfect.

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