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Tag Archives: Valencia

My 1 Year UK-Versary!

12 Friday Oct 2012

Posted by frannyritchie in Uncategorized

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Bath, Cambridge, Freiburg, Ghent, photography, retrospective, travel, Valencia

Somewhere in the last few weeks, I celebrated the end of my first year as a UK resident.  The year has really flown by, and it made me realise how much cool stuff I’ve gotten to do in the last year. When Our Friend Liz was here, she asked if we’d traveled much.  We said “oh, a little…” and then reeled off a list that was much longer than we’d even been aware of.  I went to Israel, Belgium, Switzerland, Germany, France, Spain, and The Netherlands, plus some really beautiful places in the UK.   I’ve done some really cool stuff in the last year.  Of course, its been hard, too – moving to a new country is a grand adventure blah blah blah but its also stressful, lonely and isolating.  The weather has been terrible, cold in the summer and dark in the winter, and damp all the time.  And making friends is an ongoing challenge.  I’ve met some really nice people and have been lucky enough to get lots of love from the states, but I don’t have a go-to group.  Ian and I don’t have much opportunity to do things spur-of-the-moment if we want to invite other people and we’re not in a position to turn down invitations.  That said, we do get (and reciprocate) invitations, and its rare that we go a week without a social event of some sort.  I’d prefer three or four social events, but its a start.  And its amazing that the desperate things I did in my first days here have paid off – when I accosted a couple looking at the same rental property, I didn’t imagine that we would still be hanging out with them a year later, but we are.

After a year of living here, I feel pretty settled: the fitness instructors at Kelsey Kerridge all know my name (I am immensely proud of that) and we even went out on the town together a few weeks ago.  The guy at the Turkish market with amazing produce knows that I don’t like to use plastic bags (and they have cevapcici! SO EXCITING!).  The girl at the coffee shop knows me because I have a really sweet travel mug that I bought when the local fancy furniture shop was going out of business (they also sold housewares), and she’s jealous of it.  I haven’t used Google maps to navigate around Cambridge in weeks.  When I moved here, I was always finding new cycle paths, but I haven’t found any new ones in months.

There were things about living here that came quickly: I got a bike and a mobile phone and a Network Rail Card and learned to use the currency without fumbling. All of that was a big deal to me – “see? I belong here! I’m legit!” but there have been more subtle recent developments, like the grocery guy recognising me. Cambridge is small and they speak my native language, but nonetheless, I know my way around here.  The city has become mine, in a small way

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Valenciano Snacks

09 Monday Jul 2012

Posted by frannyritchie in Snacks

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snacks, travel, Valencia

Sometimes you get really lucky, and you turn up in a city having done absolutely no research and strike holiday paydirt.  For me, that happened in Valencia. In fact, though, much of my enthusiasm can be summed up in two words: Restaurant Week.  My Friend Robert pointed out that there are lots of drawbacks to Restaurant Week, but for me it means lots of really good food pretty much every night.  We got particularly lucky the last night, when eight of us went to a place near Plaza de la Virgen (so near that I would have been skeptical, on my own).  We had two vegetarians and one man who asked for no garlic.  I mean seriously.  And even so, we had a delicious meal; the highlight was foie yogurt.  I don’t know what it was (besides some combo of foie gras and yogurt) but it tasted amazing.  It was the definition of delicious.

I had been holding out on reporting on the food because other people meticulously chronicled what we ate, and I had hoped to con them into guest blogging or, at the very least, sending me their photos (you know who you are).

So that may still happen.  But the food (and experiences relating to food) were amazing even if you discount the meals – cherries in a square behind the central market, mojitos in the shade on a sweltering afternoon, an ice cream shop where I got so many free samples I was full by the time I ordered, and lattes and campari spritzes in a leafy cafe run by two old ladies with a puppy who stood on its back legs when patrons entered, tucked into a tiny square square on the edge of the Barrio del Carmen .

The snacks were amazing.  Above: orange ice cream served in an orange skin, purchased for 60 eurocents at a grocery next to our hotel; fardons and horchata at a famous horcheteria (seriously, that’s a thing); and a sticky meringue at the central market (sadly, my photographs of the market are terrible).

Graffiti is awesome

27 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by frannyritchie in Uncategorized

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art, design, graffiti, photography, Spain, Valencia

I first went to Spain while studying abroad, and while I was getting lost in Barcelona for six straight days in a week, I saw some really amazing graffiti.  The street art in Valencia was equally impressive, and this time I had the good sense to record a bunch of it.

It was particularly common to see it on garage-style shop doors that closed for siesta (things seemed to be closed a lot in Valencia, actually).  There were also some really intricate murals that covered the entire sides of buildings, but those were more difficult to photograph.

The picture of the bull (the simple outline drawing) is my favorite – it seems very Spanish, what with the legs like a Salvador Dali painting and the fact that its a bull.

Do you have a favorite?

Navajas!

20 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by frannyritchie in Uncategorized

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entertainment, hiking, nature, Navajas, outdoors, Spain, travel, Valencia, walking

For our trip to Valencia, I got a giant guidebook to Spain out of the Cambridge library.  It had a tiny little text box in the section on Valencia stating that the town of Navajas, about 60 miles outside Valencia, had a picturesque little central plaza called Plaza D’Olmo (Elm Plaza).  From the plaza, the guidebook promised, there were four scenic walking trails in the countryside that were clearly signed.  I thought that sounded just perfect, so Ian and I rented a car, maneuvered it through roundabouts and onto the open road, and motored toward a place that only warranted four lines of guidebook.

So Ian and I rocked up to Navajas, pulled into a campsite for an early lunch (because you EAT WHEN YOU CAN in countries with siestas.  Wait too long and the joke is on you, sucka), and then drove through a beautiful town (it was a sort of Adirondack camp for the well-heeled Valencianos of a bygone era, and the houses were crazy).  We found the plaza no problem, but the tourism office closed ten minutes before we got there, and there were no hiking routes to be seen.  We circled the eponymous elm four or five times looking sadder and sadder before appealing to the locals, who spoke zero English. One of them called his brother, who passed Ian onto the local English guy, who was just in the middle of giving us directions when the mobile phone ran out of credit. So then two people marched us about a quarter of a mile down the road to the city hall, where someone dug around in a file cabinet and came up with huge stacks of English language brochures that had apparently not been required for years.  They presented us with English and Spanish versions of everything, pointed us out the door and sent us on our way.

We ended up hiking for about 4 hours through olive and almond orchards, across an old reservoir, along a stream and past have a dozen historic fountains.  It was perfect.

When we circled back to the Plaza D’Olmo at about 5:30, Ian (who in theory speaks Spanish) tried to order “un beer, por favor.”  The woman looked at him with an appropriately withering expression and said “un cerveza?”  He looked so sad and tired it was hard not to take pity on him (I had just marched him through 14 km of breathtakingly lovely Spanish countryside in 28 C heat).

I was so pleased with the day.  When I was in Switzerland, I realised how much I love being outside – the time I spent hiking up a mountain in Locarno was the high point of the trip, and I hoped to recapture a bit of that in Spain.  And I would say that the hike plus the cultural experience plus the navigating-Spanish-roundabouts-and-not-dying totally exceeded my expectations.

I Still Live in a Foreign Country

11 Monday Jun 2012

Posted by frannyritchie in Snacks

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adventure, England, foreign, mushy peas, pub, Valencia

So I’m back from Valencia.  The internet in the hotel was beyond awful, and the hotel room looked like a worn-down version of the Hilton that Betty and Don Draper stayed in when they went to Rome in season 2 (that’s 1961, y’all).

That said, the weather was sunny and warm every day and Ian and I had adventures all over the city when I wasn’t busy having adventures with my friend Robert (also a conference partner) or by myself.

Then we came back to England, and as glad as I was to be back, there are certain things that I find difficult.  For starters: WHY IS IT ALWAYS RAINING IN THIS EFFING COUNTRY?????

And let me tell you, it is doing something way more substantial than “misting” at the moment.  If you need a Celsius-Fahrenheit translation: 10 C is about 52 degrees F. It’s mid-June, and I am sick of this shit.  The temperature has barely cracked 70 in 2012.

While I have my frustrations with England, I am surprised by what now seems normal. Ian and I met up for drinks with a new intern at his office yesterday (she’s a friend of a friend) and we talked at her for hours about all the things she’d need to know and all the things that had gone hilariously awry when we moved.  But on several occasions she said “I just love how…” or “I can’t believe how…” and I just kind of blinked at her.  Of course the pubs close early – that’s how pubs work.  Of course there are no gridded streets.  Of course the weather is cold and rainy (I have to say, that last one is the only one that really floored me.  She didn’t bring a coat or waterproof clothing.  The most cursory check of weather.com would have cleared that up for her).

What was even more startling to realise is that I had a similar conversation with English people at a pub recently – they were talking about their wacky experiences in the states (“you can’t buy electric kettles everywhere! they all have clothes dryers! they’re so nice!”) and while I was curious to hear it, I couldn’t come up with rejoinders until later (“you eat mushy peas and use date sauce instead of ketchup, for fuckssake”).  Most of England just seems normal, or normal-ish, to me now, and I have to give it some thought to come up with things that I think (or thought) were strange when I moved here last autumn.

Oh, Valencia!

01 Friday Jun 2012

Posted by frannyritchie in Uncategorized

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Cambridge, Decemberists, fesetivals, Valencia

This weekend, I’m heading to Valencia, Spain, where my partner will be attending a conference and I will be lounging poolside while reading novels and drinking sangria.

I haven’t organized a single thing about this trip – all I have to do is show up – and its made the whole thing feel very surreal.  Before we leave, we’re heading to Strawberry Fair, a big deal annual Cambridge festival.  There have been goings-on in this town:a big beer festival last week, a “Town and Country Fair” next week, and a giant street party in my neighborhood at the end of June. Festival season has arrived.

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